Project Goal: Design a Raspberry Pi 5 HAT (Shield) featuring an onboard Arduino Nano, dual stepper drivers, and isolated logic.
- Mechanical & Stack-Up Requirements:
Form Factor: Standard Raspberry Pi HAT.
Height Clearance: Use a 13.5mm extra-tall 2x20 female header (stacking style) on the bottom of the PCB to ensure airflow for the Raspberry Pi 5 Active Cooler.
Socketing: Place two parallel 1x15 female headers on the top of the board to socket a removable Arduino Nano. Place two 2x8 female headers to socket removable A4988/DRV8825 stepper drivers.
- Power & Regulation:
Input: 2nd Screw Terminal for 24V DC.
Regulator: Implement a fixed LM2596S-5.0 buck converter circuit.
Layout: Place a SS34 Schottky Diode and 33uH Power Inductor in a tight loop with the LM2596. Connect the Tab (Pin 6) to a large copper ground pour for heat dissipation.
Filtering: 100uF/50V Capacitor at 24V Input; 1000uF/16V Capacitor at 5V Output.
- Opto-Isolation Barrier:
Isolation: Use a PC817-4 quad-channel optocoupler to isolate RPi GPIOs (17, 27, 22, 23) from Arduino pins (D2, D3, D4, D5).
PCB Layout: Create a physical isolation gap in the ground plane underneath the PC817-4. Do not bridge the Pi_GND and Power_GND planes.
Components: 220-ohm series resistors on the Pi side; 10k-ohm pull-down resistors on the Arduino side.
- IO & Peripheral Headers:
Servos: Two 3-pin male headers (GND, 5V, Signal). Connect signals to Arduino D12 and D13.
End Switches: Two 2-pin headers for homing switches (GND and Signal). Connect to Arduino D6 and D7.
Stepper Pins: Route Arduino D8/D9 to Driver 1 (Step/Dir) and D10/D11 to Driver 2 (Step/Dir).
- Routing Constraints:
Power traces (24V and 5V) must be at least 30 mil width.
Signal traces should be 10 mil.
Keep the switching regulator section far away from the Raspberry Pi GPIO header to minimize noise.
Pro-Tips for when the Design Loads:
The "Airflow Gap": Once Flux generates the 3D view, check the space between the bottom of your PCB and the top of the Pi. The 13.5mm header is the key; if it looks too tight for the fan, you can even go up to a 20mm header.
Arduino Orientation: Check that the Mini/Micro USB port of the Arduino Nano is pointing toward the edge of the board. If it points inward, you won't be able to plug it in to program it once the shield is assembled.
The "Keepout" Zone: Make sure Flux hasn't automatically filled the area under the optocoupler with copper. You want a "no-man's land" of fiberglass there to ensure the High Voltage (24V) side can never spark over to the Pi (3.3V) side.
Pin 6 of the LM2596: In Flux, ensure Pin 6 (the large back tab) is connected to a Copper Pour or Vias that go to the other side of the board. This is your heatsink. If it's just a floating pad, the chip will overheat and shut down your 5V rail.
nnnnnzz
copilot